When you slide into one of the restaurant’s dark wood booths, you travel back a few decades, to an era when Houston food was simply Southern. The fried seafood platter comes with gorgeously fried fish, shrimp, and oysters, but the hand-cut fries and a tangy remoulade slaw are what make it special. The dry-aged rib-eye comes flanked with that old steakhouse favorite, potatoes Lyonnaise, next to trendy grilled broccolini. The cheddar biscuits are excellent. The perfectly crusted chicken-fried steak is a one of the best in Texas.