Fans of the original (and now closed) Pico’s Mex-Mex in Bellaire and its quirky, palapa-filled patio will find the posh new Upper Kirby reincarnation (complete with new name) more formal—note the private tequila lockers, wrought-iron purse stands, and valet parking—yet chef Arnaldo Richard’s classic Mexican cuisine is still the star, and that’s what really matters. Don’t miss the spectacular moles and, when in season, Picos’ famous soft-shell crabs.