Editors’ Picks: The Absolute Best Things Houstonia Ate This Month

Image: Sofia Gonzalez
It’s part of the job: eating our way through Houston, one plate at a time. From smoky barbecue joints to underrated strip mall gems, the Houstonia team is on the hunt for what’s delicious and worth your time. Each month, we round up the bites that stuck with us—the perfectly crisped, the unexpectedly balanced, the unforgettable. These are the dishes we can’t stop thinking about.
Texas Wagyu carpaccio from Barbacana
downtown
I tried this newer restaurant by Chef Christian Hernandez for the first time this month and enjoyed several items from its menu, including the diner-favorite sourdough bread, braised pork collar with nuoc cham and toasted rice powder, and the dry-aged duck with dates. My favorite—and most surprising—plate of the night was the Texas Wagyu carpaccio with Gouda and pickled strawberries. I was a little worried that I wouldn’t like the combination of sweet and savory flavors, but it made for a refreshing and satisfying starter. —Sofia Gonzalez, food and travel editor

Image: Brittany Britto Garley
Boo's OG burger from Boo's Burgers
east end
This new burger stand from chef Joseph Boudreaux hits on all the notes—a smashburger with crispy edges, melted cheese, fresh toppings, and a tangy sauce. Make it a combo and pair it with hot fries and one of its bottled fizzy drinks (pineapple soda, for me). Spring for the garlic aioli sauce on the side for $1, and count this as one of your best meals of the month. —Brittany Britto Garley, editor in chief
Black bean and epazote tamales from Cochinita & Co.
greater east end
Cochinita & Co. is one of my go-tos for introducing out-of-town guests to some of Houston’s most standout Mexican food. I’ve never experienced anything less than a stellar meal there, but my favorite has always been the black bean and epazote tamales. They’ve got a bit of a crisp to the outside while remaining tender and flavorful on the inside. If chef Victoria Elizondo ever decides to follow up her superb taco cookbook with one on tamales, I will preorder it, day one. —Meredith Nudo, arts and culture editor

Image: Sofia Gonzalez
Nigiri from Hachi
galleria
One thing to know about me: I’m a sushi lover (and maybe a bit of a sushi snob). After a bad experience at another spot in Houston, I was put off for awhile, but Hachi has revived my love for raw fish with its guarantee of serving only the freshest of bites. During a recent visit, I sampled various styles of nigiri, including perfectly sliced Scottish salmon (sake and sake toro), Kanpachi (greater amberjack), and Madai (red sea bream), all with the ideal rice-to-fish ratio that let these fresh catches shine. It’s worth braving the Galleria traffic to get to this dining destination. —SG

Image: Brittany Britto Garley
Grilled gossip lamb chops from Kitchen Rumors
washington avenue
Chef Jassi Bindra and Kahani Social Group, the masterminds behind Amrina (The Woodlands) and fast-casual Midtown spots Pok Pok Po and Bol, recently opened one of the city’s most innovative Indian fusion restaurants. Kitchen Rumors, which merges Indian cuisine with flavors from all over the world, gets its name from the group’s idea of the restaurant spreading like hearsay, but I’m here to tell a personal dining truth: the saucy Gossip lamb chops are an explosion of spice in every bite. Don’t leave without trying a cocktail. Even the Love Marriage mocktail (cucumber, lemon, salted pistachio, lemon-honey, and rosewater) is bound to take your taste buds on a ride. —BBG
The Double Dip smoked redfish and Wagyu barbacoa at Latuli
memorial
While Gulf Coast cuisine is the standard at Latuli (meaning tons of seafood offerings), chef Bryan Caswell doesn’t skimp on the beef. The Wagyu barbacoa is one of the most flavorful dishes on the menu, with fall-apart barbacoa topped with slices of pear and jalapeño for spice and a fresh tang. If going the seafood route here, definitely try the Double Dip smoked redfish dip, which gets complemented with a pimento cheese good enough to eat on its own, plus kettle chips and oyster crackers for the actual dipping. If you love bread as much as I do, the bread service is essential: Latuli serves warm house yeast rolls along with a gruyere corn bread served with whipped sorghum butter and jalapeño jelly. —BBG

Image: Sofia Gonzalez
Carne Asada from Mayahuel
montrose
From blue fin tostadas to tacos stuffed with adobo-glazed Gulf shrimp and beef cheek confit, everything is a hit at Mayahuel. As someone who finds joy in assembling their own tacos, the carne asada was my personal favorite. Big enough to share between two people, Mayahuel’s rendition of this Mexican dish is made with a tender and juicy slow-cooked combination of New York Strip steak and beef cheek (my favorite), and is served with a side of black beans, avocado, charred onions, and housemade tortillas for a slice of Mexico City. And given its head chef Luis Robledo Richards, who was named World’s 50 Best’s Best Pastry Chef in Latin America in 2019, is also known for his Mexican chocolate shop, Tout Chocolate, you’d be remiss not to try the desserts. —SG

Image: Meredith Nudo
Menudo from Picos
upper kirby
Ever since Sofia published her beautiful and heartfelt essay on menudo back in May, I’ve wanted to try Picos’s take on the comfort food. And with the awful news of its impending closure, I had to act fast. I regret that it took me this long, because the perfectly-spiced recipe proved to be a thing of beauty. Both the menudo and the excellent weekend breakfast buffet will be greatly missed. —MN
Youvestski from Yiayia’s Greek Kitchen
upper kirby
The Pappas family has blessed Houston with a touch of their Greek Heritage with the opening of its newest restaurant, including flavorful dishes like raw oysters, beef and lamb meatballs, and the horta (braised greens with lemon and olive oil), but the star of my dining experience was the Youvetski. This dish is great for seafood lovers, as it brings together grilled shrimp, scallops, and octopus on top of orzo pasta, cooked with brown butter and olive oil. I already can’t wait to go back to try some of the other “of the sea” entrees. —SG

Image: Brittany Britto Garley
Chocolate cake and panna cotta from Yiayia’s Greek Kitchen
upper kirby
What’s dinner without dessert? After devouring plates of branzino, hummus, and lamb chops at Pappas Restaurant’s newest restaurant, Yiayia’s, I was tempted by not one, but two desserts. As a chocolate-lover, the chocolate sokolatopita was an easy first choice. This Greek chocolate cake is soaked in cocoa syrup with a dark chocolate glaze and served with vanilla gelato. The panna cotta, however, felt light and understated. Tap past the berries and into the sugary bruleed surface to dig into a thick layer of vanilla-infused yogurt custard, followed by a delightful citrus honey spice walnut cake. I still haven’t met a Pappas Restaurant dessert that I haven’t loved. —BBG