The Top Dishes Houstonia Editors Ate in July

Image: Brittany Britto Garley
It’s part of the job: eating our way through Houston, one plate at a time. From smoky barbecue joints to underrated strip mall gems, the Houstonia team is on the hunt for what’s delicious and worth your time. Each month, we round up the bites that stuck with us—the perfectly crisped, the unexpectedly balanced, the unforgettable. These are the dishes we can’t stop thinking about.
Savory scallion waffle at Agnes and Sherman
Heights
The month of July was filled with trying new things, and on that list for Houstonia was chef Nick Wong’s Asian American diner in the Heights. With the savory scallion waffle at Agnes and Sherman, this savory twist on the syrupy breakfast favorite involves a giant, fluffy waffle—think Waffle House sizes—covered in a rich sambal honey butter. The flavors work together to create a semisweet bite with a hint of a kick. —Sofia Gonzalez, food and travel editor

Image: Erica Cheng
Bolo-top egg waffles at Hong Kong Food Court
sugar land
There’s something about this other new take on the childhood favorite that just punches me in the heart. At the newly opened Hong Kong Food Court, it's the bolo-top egg waffles that do me in. Egg waffles, also known as bubble waffles or gaai daan jai, are a staple in Hong Kong’s culinary world, but at HKFC, they’re married with another iconic snack: the pineapple bun (or, bolo bao). Typically a street snack, Hong Kong Food Court takes the waffles up a notch by adding pineapple buns to each bubble, creating a bright yellow, crunchy, and sweet snack best enjoyed as a dessert. —Erica Cheng, news and city life editor

Image: Erica Cheng
Ume onigiri at Teppay
Mid-West/Westheimer
Despite how well-represented Japanese staples like sushi and udon are in the city, Houston misses the mark on onigiri, or Japanese rice balls. Luckily, Japanese mainstay Teppay is bridging the gap. Here, onigiri comes as God intended: A hefty serving of rice is wrapped around your choice of filling and swaddled in a crisp seaweed sheet. For less than $4 a pop, Teppay’s onigiri comes with fillings like ikura (marinated salmon eggs) and ume (Japanese pickled plum). The ume onigiri is an easy favorite, with a delightful contrast of flavors—a blank slate of white rice is a canvas for the heavy salt, acidity, and umami-tinged fruitiness. —EC
Bò né at Les Ba’get
Garden Oaks/Oak Forest
Forget banh mi—bò né reigns supreme. Also known as Vietnamese steak and eggs, bò né is a no-frills yet luxurious take on breakfast. At Les Ba’get, chunks of rib eye and a fried egg are served on a sizzling platter that earns plenty of looks from other diners. Grilled with onions and peppers, the steak and eggs are paired with two triangles of toasted baguette and slathered in bone marrow butter. It’s messy and definitely enough to put you to sleep, but it's worth it. —EC
Maltina beef cheek, jerk chicken, and macaroni and cheese at ChòpnBlọk
Montrose
It’s often that you get not one, not two, but three talented chefs in one room, but that’s precisely what happened during ChòpnBlọk's special edition dinner earlier this July. Chef-owner Ope Amosu and Top Chef: Portland finalist teamed up with Austin-based chef Tavel Bristol-Joseph of Emmer & Rye Hospitality (Canje, Isidore, Pullman Market) to host a dinner that was a meeting of the minds and a true celebration of the African diaspora. In true ChòpnBlọk spirit, the restaurant kicked off with a bite of saucy Maltina beef cheek and meat pies, before diving into dishes like a juicy jerk chicken plated with a spicy sauce, and a side of creamy Creole macaroni and cheese that I ate so quickly, I had no time to snap a picture. Dinner ended with a tres leches cake, made with plantain-pineapple jam for a sweet ending. If this is any indicator of what Bristol-Joseph has in mind for the new restaurant planned for Autry Park, sign me up. —Brittany Britto Garley, editor in chief

Image: Brittany Britto Garley
Chicken Parmesan at Milton’s
rice village
I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again: Milton’s has the best chicken Parmesan in Houston. Tucked into an upstairs building in Rice Village, this intimate Italian restaurant offers a cozy ambience, refreshing crudo dishes, and delightful cocktails. But, let’s be real: it’s all about the pasta dishes. While the carbonara and the mushroom-laden cresta di gallo are standouts, it’s the Parm that keeps me coming back for more. Diners can expect two crispy breaded chicken pieces topped with a combination of melted and shredded cheese, plus a side of al dente spaghetti with tons of garlic flavor. Though you could share, I wouldn’t advise it (During my most recent visit, I made my husband order his own, I ate my own, and then I ordered another one to go). Bonus: Milton’s sister establishment Local Foods sells packages of its dried housemade pasta to go, so you can try to recreate some of its dishes at home. —BBG
Pork spare ribs at Pizzitola’s
Heights
I was recently tasked with finding a classic barbecue joint inside the loop to entertain a large group of both out-of-towners and seasoned Houstonians (pun intended). Pizzitola’s made the cut, obviously, since they’ve had a good 90 years to perfect their craft. Everything on the menu elicited some big “Mmm”s, but especially the fall-off-the-bone tender pork spare ribs. Save room for the banana pudding. —Meredith Nudo, senior culture editor