Road trips through Texas have a special kind of charm, from the endless beautiful scenery to quirky roadside spots that pop up out of nowhere. I took a three-day journey starting in Houston and winding westward into the Hill Country. The trip was sprinkled with lavender fields, a gigantic squirrel, amazing small-town flavor, and comfortable lodgings that capture Texas’s laid-back nature. It’s a manageable loop that felt like a true escape without straying too far from the city.

Day 1

Of course, I had to stop by a Buc-ee’s to kick things off. A special guest appearance from a larger-than-life beaver mascot made the perfect photo op at the Waller location (our rating, p. 45), complete with a bright red Buc-ee’s-themed car parked right in the store.

After a lively start, the road led straight to a spot that embodied a more peaceful vibe: the Chappell Hill Lavender Farm in Brenham. The best time to experience this place in all its purple glory is generally late spring through summer, when the lavender fields are flourishing. Even without being drenched in blooms, though, the property radiates a kind of calm that feels worlds away from the city. There’s a cute gift shop where shelves are stacked with lavender-infused items, from scented oils and creams to a truly decadent fudge that blends sweet chocolate with a floral twist.

As I walked through the gorgeous fields, I spotted some bright-white dandelions. I can’t lie, picking a few and blowing them in the wind while making a wish made me feel like I was in my true main character moment. But the highlight of the farm might be the goat pen, inhabited by three of the friendliest goats around: Fonzie, Moonshine, and Oreo (named for his adorable dark fur with white spots).

About 20 minutes west of the lavender farm, the Rustic Center of Brenham is a treasure trove of crafty home decor that feels like stepping into an oversize artist’s studio. Colorfully painted ceramic lizards, sunburst metal wall hangings,
pottery of all sizes and colors, and chunky wooden furniture line every corner. It can be tough to resist buying half the store, but even browsing can give some inspo.

Next stop, Round Top. The Frenchie Boutique Hotel (rooms start at $225 a night) is the ideal spot for unwinding after a day of activities. This isn’t your average overnight crash pad—it’s a cluster of gorgeously renovated houses, each split into a few suites with shared kitchens and cozy living spaces, the kind of place that makes you want to kick your shoes off and pretend you live there full-time. I ended the afternoon with a quick relaxation sesh by the pool with a book (The Secret Lives of Baba Segi’s Wives, if you were wondering) and some lemony gnocchi with mushrooms, plus a Frenchie 100 (their take on a French 75 that includes vodka and a caviar bump).

A couple of minutes down the road, Royers Round Top Café might look weathered on the outside, but it serves up pure comfort inside. The staff is the lively kind that’ll call you “darlin’” and treat you like a regular even if it’s your first visit. Remember to make a reservation, as the restaurant gets full real quick. The bruschetta hit the table first, loaded with juicy tomatoes and fresh herbs, then came Micah’s salmon, which had a smoky, buttery thing going on. Pair it with a tall pitcher of sweet tea, and it’s the perfect small-town meal. If there’s still room for dessert (let’s be real, there should always be room for dessert), walk across the street to Royer’s Pie Haven. D’ette’s strawberry rhubarb pie is worth the sugar crash. Tart, sweet, flaky, it hits every note.

Day 2

The second day started with a detour into the wonderfully odd. Ms. Pearl, the giant squirrel statue off Highway 71, is hard to miss. She’s huge. Like, 14-feet-tall huge. And she’s got a bit of a cult following. Visitors are encouraged to snap a photo and send it in to maybe earn a spot on the “squirrel wall.” Nearby Berdoll Pecan Candy and Gift Company is part nut-themed gift shop, part snack heaven: local honey, candied pecans, pecan brittle, pralines, the works. There’s even a vending machine outside that dispenses full pecan pies 24/7. Let that sink in. Pie. From a vending machine. And somehow, it slaps.

I stopped at Paw-Paws Catfish House in Bastrop for a satisfying lunch. Try the combo platter with hush puppies, fried fish, and all the fixins. Grab a seat outside if the weather’s right—prime for people-watching and enjoying that slow, small-town energy. It’s worth poking around the neighboring shops. Simply Sweet Cupcakes has cute, decorated sweets that almost feel too precious to eat, and Unique Beads and Bangles by Deadra can provide a souvenir that’s not your usual magnet or shot glass. Need a cold one? Bastrop Beer Company’s got your back with its massive selection of craft and local brews.

From there, head to Lyndon B. Johnson National Historical Park in Stonewall for a drive-through tour. There are sprawling fields dotted with cattle (who seem in no rush to move, and, frankly, you shouldn’t be either), reconstructed buildings from LBJ’s life, his grave, and other stops to get out and wander around. There’s also a landing strip on the property, where the former president flew in. What you can’t tour, though, is the Texas White House. While you can view it from the outside, it’s still under rehabilitation with no clear reopening date.

About 30 miles southwest, Old Tunnel State Park is a lesser-known gem best visited with a pair of sturdy shoes. The main attraction here is the abandoned railroad tunnel that’s now home to a seasonal bat colony. Between May and October, thousands of bats emerge at dusk, swirling into the sky in a mesmerizing rush of wings. Even without them, the trail around the tunnel is scenic and peaceful. There’s not much cell service, which forces you to be present. It’s quiet, it’s rocky, and if you time it right, golden hour turns the whole place into something dreamlike.

Just outside the park, Alamo Springs Café is where to go if you’re craving a good burger or just want to hang with some genuinely kind folks who are more than happy to help you find your way around. This place has that old-school, no-frills charm—just solid food and, if you’re lucky, live music.

After a nice hike, a good glass of wine (or a few) felt well-earned. Texas Wine Collective, located on the 290 wine trail, delivered on that front. This isn’t one of those ultraformal wineries that make you feel bad for not knowing the difference between tannins and acidity. The vibe is chill, and the staff knows how to guide you through the tasting without making it weird. The Signature Tasting ($25) includes pours from the three local wineries in the collective: Brennan Vineyards, Lost Oak Winery, and McPherson Cellars. On my visit, a live band played on the patio while a food truck dished out snacks—the whole thing felt like an adult summer camp.

In Johnson City, I indulged in 290 Locale Winery and Pizzeria’s to-die-for Vino Pizza, made with a red wine–infused sauce, melted mozzarella, mushrooms, pepperoncini, and a balsamic drizzle. The milkshake, though? Underrated highlight. It’s thick, creamy, and somehow doesn’t feel like overkill even after multiple wine tastings. If you want a night out in Fredericksburg instead, head to Otto’s German Bistro (order the duck schnitzel) and tasting-room-hop on Main Street.

That night’s stay was at Laurel Court Cottages (rooms start around $200 a night), which may have been the best surprise of the trip. Each guest gets a private cottage with a large walk-in shower; a hot tub; a firepit; a record player with Eagles, Fleetwood Mac, and Janis Joplin vinyl albums; a telescope for stargazing; and pickleball paddles and balls for the court outside. There was also a pocket joke book, an Etch-a-Sketch, and a little water ring toss that immediately unlocked core childhood memories.

Day 3

The final morning kicked off with a slightly weird yet fun detour to Stonehenge II in Ingram. No, it’s not quite the same as hopping on a flight to England, but it’s also not trying to be. Built as an homage (and kind of just for the hell of it), the structures are hollow but impressive in size and layout. The replica Easter Island heads off to the side add to the kitsch appeal. It’s a quick stop, but worth pulling over for a few pics and a walk around to stretch your legs.

Back east, Johnson City Coffee Co. is the kind of caffeine stop that makes you want to linger. The Kay’s honey pecan latte hits a perfect mix of sweet and nutty. There’s plenty of outdoor seating, and a lineup of on-site food trucks offers everything from tacos to breakfast sandwiches.

No road trip is complete without one final, satisfyingly messy meal, and the original location of Truth BBQ in Brenham nailed it. The smoky, juicy brisket sandwich felt like a fitting farewell to the countryside. The signature barbecue sauce stood out enough to grab a bottle for later.

By the end of the trip, I felt rejuvenated and reconnected with my Texas roots. There’s a rhythm to the Hill Country that doesn’t ask you to rush. It’s unbothered. And if you let it, it’ll slow you down in the best way.