Few newspaper food critics command our attention, fewer still offer sound advice on dining out, and only a tiny fraction can persuade The Drawl to read articles with titles like “Long John Silver’s Debuts New Fish Basket.” But Ken Hoffman is all of these and more. This month, according to the columnist’s own figures, he will write his 1,000th “Drive-thru Gourmet” review for the Chron. In celebration, The Drawl takes a look back at Hoffman’s everyman oeuvre, an unsnooty, blurbirific smorgasbord of culinary discernment.

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