New Gastropub Edison Had Us at Big Bulbs

And they double had us at Duck & Pancakes.

By Beth Levine February 24, 2017

Back mural jonn1n

"Incredible Food, Great Drinks, & well, Big Bulbs." Yep, I admit it, that tag line snagged me. With bulbs in mind, I enlisted my eating partner in crime and headed to check out Edison last Friday. 

Located in Houston’s Northside, the team behind Edison has carefully curated the restaurant's aesthetic. Part rustic chic, part white marble glamor, there are little details to discover everywhere. I particularly liked the small metal utility boxes on the side of the indoor tables complete with chains. Going by the motto on a mural “Drink More, Love More, Live Longer,” we checked out the white marble bar before heading to a table.

There is something about white marble and metal together that just works — even the beer taps are white marble. But we decided to stick with cocktails. I started off with one of my personal faves, the Sazerac; my friend got the signature Edison. I like my cocktails on the boozy side, so the Edison, with its combination of spiced rum, tamarind, ginger beer and lime, was a little too sweet for me, but my Sazerac was great. 

Based on our pre-dinner menu snooping, we decided to start with the crispy Brussels sprouts. I love Brussels sprouts. I love pork belly. Consequently, this dish made me so happy that I almost stabbed my friend with my fork because he was hogging them. For our entrées, we decided to go with the smoked short rib flatbread and the Duck & Pancakes.

Duck and pancakes a0a9k2

Duck & Pancakes, $14.

Edison serves dishes as soon as they're ready, so the Duck & Pancakes came out first. I was not quite sure what to make of this dish—I mean, I like duck and I love pancakes, but I had never thought of having them together. Thank you, Edison, for having that thought for me. I am not sure what they put in the Red Hot syrup — it was good enough that I took some home with me.

We ordered more cocktails to go with our next entrée. I got the four-liquor, orange-flavored Cock & Bull, while my friend went with the girly Mexican Firing Squad, a tequila tipple sweetened with grenadine and agave. Once again, my drink was fantastic. And the combo of Bourbon, Cognac, Benedictine and orange liqueur wasn't responsible for the fact that I was literally still hanging onto a plate of that crack-like Red Hot syrup.

Unfortunately, the short rib flatbread paled in comparison. The short rib and horseradish by itself was really good, but together with the flatbread, the dish somehow fell short. However, while we were discussing this, two braised pork shanks went by us. They looked amazing and judging by the facial expressions of the couple at the table eating them, that’s what I am getting next time.

After deciding to take a small eating breather, drink our cocktails and visit the pisser (yes, that’s what they call the restroom) adorned by the famed Edison lights; we checked out the outdoor space. It was a little cold the night we were there, so the fire pit mode was raging around the picnic tables with built-in beer chillers. The vibe at Edison, along with the openness between the outdoor and indoor areas, is very chill but also bustling — a good place to take a date or grab some drinks on girls' night.

Interior axf8kt

The pisser, in all its glory.

Currently Edison only has one dessert on the menu: Edison Pie, which comprises old fashioned rolled oat, Texas pecans and is topped off with fresh cream and ice cream. I am not a pecan fan, but this was surprisingly good. The pie had a granular texture that mixed really well with the ice cream. Pro tip: Save some of that duck pancake syrup for this. 

While Edison still has some kinks to iron out on the menu, what they do right, they do very right. Add in the unique design and Edison is definitely worth a visit. And as much as I'm happy to eat Duck & Pancakes any night of the week, word is they do a mean Monday steak night.

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