Fit For A King

King's Bierhaus' New Brunch Service Off to a Perfect Start

A winning combination of food, service and atmosphere.

By Joanna O'Leary March 16, 2018

King s benedict 5 zuzzuk

King's benny has the goods.

Lederhosen, pretzels, and large mugs of dark beer are not what immediately come to mind when I envision a “perfect” brunch. Maybe I should rethink my definition of “perfection.”

I say that after one of the most enjoyable brunches–with regards to food, service, and atmosphere–I have ever experienced. Before you dismiss my claims as hyperbole, consider the details.

My companion and I arrived in the early afternoon at King’s Bierhaus on a Sunday, technically the tail-end of the brunch service, though the tables brimming with families and couples and the palpable energy of the staff suggested otherwise. After placing our beverage orders at the front counter, we made our way through the interior dining and bar area to a large circular wooden table on the patio. Other even more relaxed seating options (hammocks, swings) were available, ideal, I think, for a nap in between courses.  

I wasn’t drinking that day but a few sips of my friend’s golden Weinstephaner Vitus almost changed my mind, so terrifically light, citrusy was this brew.

My “perfect” (Western) brunch then and now still involves eggs in some form, so we started with an order of the gourmet deviled egg sampler. Of the half-dozen ova that arrived adorned with various toppings, the clear standout were those stacked with juicy fried chicken schnitzel and bourbon bacon jam, though my friend also raved about the Buffalo chicken schnitzel eggs with bleu cheese crumbles. He has a thing for bleu cheese.

In between courses, my friend’s second brew (a headier Weltenburger Barock Dunkel this time) arrived, enabling him to refresh his palate before we forged full steam ahead into our entrees. Despite the fact that between the two of us we had already consumed our RDA of protein, and for that matter, in egg form, I could have easily polished off the King’s Benedict. Its flaky carbohydrate base of cheddar chive biscuits served as willing sponges for the butter yolk that readily escaped when I gently prodded the exterior of the poached eggs. I don’t usually describe hollandaise sauce as “refreshing,” but this adjective seems fitting for the strong herbal notes from the inclusion of an ample amount of dill, a welcome balance to the fatty bacon strips included in this benny.

I’m thankful I restrained myself (somewhat) with the benedict, because the breakfast grilled cheese, which layered a fried egg, cheddar, and American cheeses on a malty soft pretzel, was similarly excellent. A side of tomato basil soup, weakly salted (thank you!) and strong in natural botanical flavors, was the necessary and wonderful complement.

Other accompaniments, such as the under-seasoned breakfast potatoes and fries, offered little to write home about, but I was easily distracted from these disappointments by other lovely surprises, such as the terrific red berry jelly that came with (more) biscuits and the garnish of sauerkraut for my friend’s wagu hot dog.

My first dining experience at King’s Bierhaus bodes well for a repeat visit, but next time I’m going after the sun sets to try some of their German specialties such as the game sausages, jaegerschnitzle, and spaetzle.

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