Fox Restaurant Concepts, the group responsible for Flower Child and North Italia, have brought another one of its concepts to Uptown. Blanco Tacos & Tequila, located at 5115 Westheimer Road, is a Tex-Mex (sort of ... it originated in Arizona) restaurant that doesn’t take itself too seriously.

For one, the menu plays with convention and offers things you may not typically see in a Houston Tex-Mex restaurant. It's a tall order for an established chain to bring tacos, enchiladas, and fajitas into Houston, but Blanco might be able to fit here.

Take, for example, the tomato cheese crisp, a curious pizza-like item that recalls Oaxacan tlayudas. But it was nothing too wild and was rightly cheesy and crispy. The Famous Guacamole had cotija cheese, which added a nice texture, while grilled Mexican street corn—covered in ancho chile, lime, mayo, cilantro and cotija cheese—was as authentic as any street corn you’d get from a vendor in Mexico.

Looking for a standout entrée? The meat in the Snake River Farms wagyu carne asada tacos was so tender that it just melted, with the corn tortilla accenting with a bright, sweet flavor. With sides, try the Spanish quinoa rice and black beans.

And dessert? The caramel flan that was pretty sweet, but strawberries and blueberries topping the dish lended tartness. The Mexican chocolate tiramisu with Gamesa Marias Cookies had a creamy smoothness.

Blanco goes for a sophisticated, old-world feel to the dining area, with overhead lights looking like early 20th century candles. There's a bar between the main dining room and patio, and the kitchen is visible from your table.

Houston is a big town with plenty of Tex-Mex and Mexican options, but Blanco isn't shying away. It should add some variety to a well-beloved cuisine.

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