Never Meat

Now Settled in, Lindiana’s Southern Vegan Kitchen Is Winning Us Over

The meatless comfort food truck is producing some seriously good mac 'n' cheese, 'fish,' and 'chicken.'

By Ian Everett March 3, 2020

Fried "fish," red beans and rice, and mac 'n' cheese at Lindiana's Southern Vegan Kitchen.

Image: Ian Everett

The secret to real comfort food has always been a heaping dose of love. Sure, greasy junk food might hit the spot, chemically speaking, but true comfort food? That’s made at home, with love.

Lindiana’s Southern Vegan Kitchen is reinventing that soul for the vegans among us, though it’s taken some time for it to find its footing. Co-owner Tony Davis cooks his mother Linda's Southern comfort recipes—tweaked when he became vegan—in a food truck parked at 3530 Wheeler Ave. near Texas Southern University and a stone’s throw from the University of Houston (it has moved around a bit).

Davis wasn’t always a chef, having graduated from Prairie View A&M with a degree in architecture, says co-owner Irene Berry, but that doesn’t seem to be an obstacle. Lindiana’s puts an entirely new spin on comfort food by offering familiar classics in a new light.

There’s crispy, flaky fried “fish” made from banana blossom and “shrimp” made from konjac fruit. The delicious and creamy soy-free, nut-free mac and cheese is so good that it’s bound to make traditional cheese-eaters call out for more. Sadly, that recipe is a secret, so forget trying to recreate it at home.

The chicken sandwich is a monster of a meal. It dwarfs even the Popeye's chicken sandwich, and it has just as much flavor. The “chicken” is made with wheat gluten, then deep fried and hit with a proprietary creole spice blend. It’s served with onion on a pretzel bun.  

Vegan food, regular food, doesn’t matter: Lindiana’s offers fantastic Cajun food, regardless of the ingredients. I’ll have to come back for its Saturday and Sunday brunch services, highlighted by fried chicken (made from cauliflower) and waffles. Maybe I’ll get a discount, too, since Lindiana’s offers them for students with a valid college ID.

Even more exciting? Maybe a standalone pastry concept where Linda, who bakes vegan pastries for the truck and helps with catering, offers her own treats. You know what they say—like son, like mother.

Lindiana’s Southern Vegan Kitchen is open from 12:30 p.m. to 9 p.m. Tues–Fri, and from 12:30 p.m. to 5 p.m. Sat–Sun.

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