Restaurant Review

Doris Metropolitan Isn’t Just Another Houston Steakhouse

The high-end Israeli-inspired hideaway is a little slice of heaven.

By Shelby Stewart March 8, 2023

The interior of Doris Metropolitan. 

There’s no shortage of good steakhouses in Houston, but few are as satisfying as Doris Metropolitan. The handsome Montrose butchery and restaurant, which keeps a low profile, word-of-mouth vibe, is teeming with mouthwatering dishes. Cozy and intimate, it's a must-add to your list of Houston restaurants. 

Once home to Triniti, a concept from Ryan Hildebrand, (and at one point, Michelle Obama’s favorite Houston eatery), Doris Metropolitan retains some of Triniti’s upscale touches. From the comforting heft of the front door to the mouthwatering decadence of their 34-ounce Porterhouse (great for sharing). I was so taken with Doris Metropolitan’s Porterhouse—tender, juicy, and cooked to perfection—I’ve already planned out my next visit. 

The idea for an Israeli-influenced restaurant stems from the owners Itai Ben Eli and Itamar Levy’s original butcher shop in Israel, also named Doris. Since then the pair have expanded the presence of Doris's reach, first to Costa Rica in 2010, then to New Orleans in 2014, and Houston in 2017.   

In Doris’s kitchen, Chef Daniel Davidson clearly puts significant time and intention into preparing and cooking the menu’s many marbled cuts of meat. Prime cuts include Wagyu and Texas Akaushi beef. All of the meat is wet-aged for 21 days, then dry-aged in a glass case for up to another 31 days (the large glass casing for the aging meats is to the left of the restaurant’s 30-seat bar and is a remarkable sight to see). The meat curation process is calculated to excellence, so each steak is juicy and flavorful. The restaurant’s open-concept kitchen is an added plus, so you not only get dinner but also a show as you watch your food being prepared. 

But just because Doris Metropolitan serves steaks, doesn’t make it only a steakhouse. The chef-driven intentionality makes it so much more. On the menu you will also find a handful of veggie-centric small plates and appetizers. Because the restaurant is largely influenced by Israeli cuisine, you won’t find your usual steakhouse sides like Caesar salads and lobster mac and cheese. Instead, diners have their choice of unique and eclectic Mediterranean-inspired options, like a salad made with tomatoes prepared four ways and garnished with Moroccan olives, greens, egg yolk, and feta, and seared scallops made with a yogurt labneh, cucumber chimichurri, and radish, topped with lime oil. Their spread of focaccia and snail shell black-olive bread will also get your full attention. 

Marbled cut of meat at Doris Metropolitan. 

Seafood lovers can choose from tuna tartare, Moroccan fish, Regiis Ova Royal caviar, and octopus prepared in new and imaginative ways. The tuna tartare has a ginger emulsion, and the octopus undergoes a sous vide process before it’s charred on the grill. 

At Doris Metropolitan, the cocktail and wine menus are just as impressive as the food. Edible flowers topped off the Porn Star, one of the restaurant’s most popular drinks—don’t knock it till you try it. Another favorite is the February special cocktail, made with Lillet infused with vanilla and hibiscus, and mixed with gin, elderflower, elderberry liqueur, bergamot, and acid liqueur. 

While you’ll fully embrace the luxury of indulging in some of the finest steaks the city has to offer, there’s nothing pretentious about Doris Metropolitan. There’s a casual, minimalist feel to it all, however, there’s nothing mundane about the dishes. It’s the restaurant that you’ll find yourself talking about for weeks after your visit, raving to your friends about how good the food is. Trust me, I’m guilty. 

Doris Metropolitan is located at 2815 S Shepherd Drive. Open for dinner only, Monday-Saturday. 

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