Battle of the Burgers

Which Houston Smashburger Reigns Supreme?

From Trill Burgers to Burger Bodega, we try four different smashburgers to crown the winner.

By Daniel Renfrow July 17, 2023 Published in the Fall 2023 issue of Houstonia Magazine

The only thing crispier than Trill Burgers' patties is the crispness of its moves with a nunchuck.

Image: Amy Kinkead

Houston has reached peak smashburger. Every restaurant these days seems to be offering this crisped-to-perfection style of burger. But with so many options out there, which is the best? We tried out four local versions, using our journalistic analytical skills to determine which smashburger reigns supreme.

Trill Burgers

Known for its long lines, rapper Bun B’s Trill Burgers has quickly become a national sensation through its pop-ups across the country, having set up shop everywhere from sports stadiums to Coachella. In June 2023, Trill Burgers opened its first brick-and-mortar to much fanfare (and, still, very long lines) in the former home of the Montrose James Coney Island. The building now sports a cheery black and yellow color scheme and plenty of space to sit back and enjoy its burgers with a fountain drink.

What sets Trill apart from the rest of the competition is its patty: You’ll be hard-pressed to find another smashburger in Houston with crispier edges. Trill’s potato bun is also pretty tasty and has a nice texture. The restaurant’s super secret Trill sauce stacks up well against its competitors, but there wasn’t quite enough of it on the burger. The toppings of pickles, caramelized onions, and American cheese work well, but something a little crunchier for textural contrast would be nice.

Patty: 5 out of 5 / Bun: 4 out of 5 / Sauce: 4 out of 5 / Toppings: 4 out of 5 / Atmosphere: 4 out of 5 / Total score: 21 out of 25

BunSlut may be an underdog, but its signature sauce sports a kick to it. 

Image: Amy Kinkead

BunSlut

Owned by entrepreneurs Mohammad Jamshad and Ali Nasser (who is also a co-owner of Dripped Birria and Main Bird Hot Chicken), BunSlut opened its first location as a food truck in 2021. There are now two trucks, in the Galleria area and in the Northside, as well as a location downtown in Underground Hall. We visited the Galleria-area food truck on a Saturday night, which is not recommended since the parking situation there makes you feel like you’ve unwittingly found your way into a new circle of hell.

We ordered the single, which comes with one patty, grilled onions, American cheese, and pickles, all served on a potato bun. While the patty definitely had some crisp, it was missing the extra-crispy hallmark of a great smashburger, sported by its competition at Trill Burgers and Burger Bodega. The bun was average, and the burger’s signature “slut sauce” had a nice tang to it. One thing that sets BunSlut apart is that you can add tomatoes, lettuce, and bacon to your burger, which have the potential for nice textural elements.

Patty: 3 out of 5 / Bun: 3 out of 5 / Sauce: 4 out of 5 / Toppings: 4 out of 5 / Atmosphere: 2 out of 5 / Total score: 16 out of 25

Burger-chan is a build-your-own topping adventure, but can it come out on top?

Image: Amy Kinkead

Burger-chan

Owned by Diane and Willet Feng, this Galleria-area smashburger spot opened in January 2022, replacing a Greenway Plaza location that closed in 2020 due to the effects of the pandemic. Burger-chan was notably the runner-up in the local “Smashburger Showdown” hosted by Good Morning America, where it competed against Trill Burgers, the ultimate winner of the national title. The restaurant sports a minimalist aesthetic with kitschy touches, like a mural designed to look like a comic strip, and another featuring mountains in a brush painting style.

Burger-chan’s appeal comes from getting to construct your own burger. Bun options range from sweet sourdough to brioche, and there is an endless variety of cheeses, extra proteins, veggies, and sauces you can add to your burger. We went with a brioche bun, Swiss cheese, sautéed onions, charred jalapeños, lettuce, and Sambal mayo. Although the patty had a great flavor, the edges were lacking in crispiness. But the bun, Sambal mayo, onions, and jalapeños were total marvels. Burger-chan definitely has the best toppings and buns of the bunch.

Patty: 3 out of 5 / Bun: 5 out of 5 / Sauce: 4 out of 5 / Toppings: 5 out of 5 / Atmosphere: 3 out of 5 / Total score: 20 out of 25

Burger Bodega bested the rest with its ultra-crispy patties and kitschy, well-designed space, which will make for a nice throne room.

Image: Amy Kinkead

Burger Bodega

The brainchild of Houston food influencer Abbas Dhanani, Burger Bodega, like Trill Burgers, also started as a series of popular pop-ups. In fall 2022, Dhanani opened his first brick-and-mortar in Rice Military to very long lines. (Notice a theme?) Months later, crowds still flock here, which is a testament to the smashburgers as well as the spot’s unique aesthetic. Designed to look like a New York City bodega, the pip-squeak spot includes shelves lined with faux corner-store items like cereals, condiments, sodas, and detergents, all of which have been artfully rebranded with Houston names.

The double smashburger here is a delight. The patty’s edges were crisped to perfection, the potato bun made more delicious by the fact that it was toasted. The restaurant’s signature bodega sauce was up to par, and boy was there a lot of it. While the burgers here come topped with grilled onions, American cheese, and housemade pickles, you can also add jalapeños for an extra kick. Food aside, Burger Bodega’s atmosphere is unparalleled in the Houston smashburger scene.

Patty: 5 out of 5 / Bun: 4 out of 5 / Sauce: 4 out of 5 / Toppings: 4 out of 5 / Atmosphere: 5 out of 5 / Total score: 22 out of 25

The Winner: Burger Bodega

Although Trill Burgers is a close second, we’re crowning Burger Bodega’s smashburger as the best in Houston. The space’s atmosphere and the crispiness of the patty was a winning combination for us.

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