Welcome to Houstonia Approved, an occasional series where our editors recommend something to do in Houston that they’ve recently enjoyed and answer any questions you may have. Today, we’re talking about Nonno’s Family Pizza Tavern, a new Montrose restaurant by the folks behind Nobie’s and Toasted Coconut.

I’m gonna stop you right there, Houston doesn’t have good pizza. That’s certainly the reputation our city’s food scene has: we do a lot of things well, but pizza is just not one of them. I’m happy to say that the tide has been turning recently with a flurry of new—and actually good!—pizzerias opening around town such as Elro, Betelgeuse Betelgeuse, Gold Tooth Tony’s, Neighbors (an evolution of Angie’s Pizza), and even a location of Austin import Home Slice Pizza. Nonno’s is the latest of these successful ventures, serving Chicago-style pies.

So you mean deep-dish? Actually no, Chicagoans will tell you that thin-crust, tavern-style pizza is the true Chi-town delicacy, which is what Nonno’s offers on its menu. The restaurant opened in August, another slam dunk from the talented owners of Nobie’s and the Toasted Coconut.

Those places sound familiar, remind me what their deal is? Nobie’s has been a consistently reliable neighborhood favorite in Montrose since 2016, serving creative New American dishes and comfort food with fun names like Don’t Worry, Brie Happy and the Carroty Kid. Owners Martin Stayer and Sara Thompson-Stayer followed by opening the Toasted Coconut in 2019, a charming and colorful tiki bar with great cocktails as well as killer food. When neighboring sports bar Revelry on Richmond closed last summer, the Stayers took over the space to open Nonno’s (pronounced “non-ohs” and not “no-nos”).

Okay, back to the pizza. What should I order? We loved our Maui Wowee pizza, a delicious exercise in contrasts with spam, pineapple, and smoked jalapeño. If you’re one of those knuckleheads who hates pineapple on your pizza, you’ll probably like the Meat Head, which is topped with capicola, pepperoni, and sausage; or get your greens in with pies that feature broccoli and garlic or kale and pesto. Nonno’s also allows you to build your own pizza.

I can get down with piña on a pie. What should I have on the side? Do not leave Nonno’s without ordering the Mozz Sticks, without a doubt the best mozzarella sticks we’ve ever had—extra fat, with a perfectly crispy exterior and cheese that stretches for days, served with a spicy marinara they’re calling “Fat Larry sauce.” Since opening, Nonno’s very recently added housemade pastas to the menu, such as a cacio e pepe and Bolognese.

I feel like I’ve heard about Nobie’s famous pies … does Nonno’s do dessert, too? Yes, Nobie’s pastry chef Kelly Walker has made a name for herself as perhaps the best pie maker in town, with creations that rotate nightly. She brought over some of that magic to Nonno’s, notably her super-decadent cheesecake with a pretzel crust that everyone has been talking about—so save some room.

You’ve sold me on the food, but what about the vibes? Impeccable. The team did an awesome job with the space’s renovation, adding retro touches like colorful booth seating and banquettes, wood paneling throughout the dining room, and even Pizza Hut light fixtures for nostalgia. There’s bar seating and a small game nook with pinball machines, and the playlist is something out of a millennial’s fever dream with bangers from the ’90s. Nonno’s is a sweet, sweet fantasy, baby.