The long, four-year wait to try Late August is finally over. The much-anticipated restaurant by Chris Williams, James Beard Award finalist and chef-owner of Lucille’s, opened in late March. Diners can look forward to a menu that mixes West African influences with southern Mexican dishes, such as oxtail stew and a new take on gumbo.

Taking inspiration from the history of its location inside the Ion—Midtown’s former Sears building—Late August is named for the time of year when the Sears Christmas-themed catalog would make its way to Houstonians’ doorsteps. Williams says the new restaurant seeks to bring the excitement the catalog once brought.

“I want people to be able to see themselves, celebrate themselves—see all that’s possible and just enjoy themselves in a fun place,” Williams says.

However, Late August’s four-year road to opening was a rocky one. Williams says the idea began during a tough time in July 2020, following social turmoil after George Floyd’s murder and the onset of the pandemic. When he was first approached by the Ion’s management to open a restaurant in the new development, he had no funding or investors. But, with a habit to never play it safe, Williams went for it.

Once planning began, Late August was expected to open in August 2021, but the punches kept on rolling. Williams says he faced every obstacle someone could encounter when opening a restaurant. Rising inflation, of course, but the restaurant also had to switch contractors. The first design firm Williams hired ended up not having enough restaurant experience, which meant a year went down the drain. And in July 2023, another challenge struck: Dawn Burrell parted ways with Lucille’s Hospitality Group, leaving her role as Late August’s executive chef. Regardless of the bumps in the road, Williams says Late August’s journey taught him a lot and was ultimately worth the wait.

“Even though it took four years, opening was the easy part,” Williams says. “Now, the real work is trying to get our service on a level that meets expectations and the ultimate vision of the space.”

Williams chose to keep the original terrazzo marble floors from the Sears retail store, which closed in 2018. As adults, he says, we can appreciate the floor’s beauty, with its hints of teal, salmon, and burnt orange, much more than when we were children running around the department store.

With help from the Gin Design Group, the rest of Williams’s dreams for Late August were brought to fruition, including a handmade metallic-accented wallpaper, a custom marble bar with contrasting inlaid marble, mirrored tiles, sculptural metallic mirrors, and a private dining room. Williams says another important piece of the design is an artwork by Robert Hodge, portraying a collage made from an old Sears Christmas catalog with West African and Mexican touches.

Williams replaced Burrell with executive chef Sergio Hidalgo, the longtime protégé of chef Alex Padilla, formerly of Ninfa’s and now Pappas Restaurants. Late August’s extensive wine and cocktail program is led by Danny Davis, the general manager and sommelier, who was tasked with finding selections made by Black and brown winemakers. The cocktail menu has a focus on bourbon and mezcal, as well as drinks made with Highway vodka, the brand of Williams’s brother, Ben Williams.

The restaurant’s food menu draws from a trip Williams took eight years ago to Oaxaca, where he discovered the influence of West African food on the cuisine of southern Mexico. This has stuck with him for years. Now, Hidalgo and Williams are drawing from beloved ingredients they remember from these travel experiences as well as their childhoods. One example of this is Late August’s gumbo. It has all the components of a basic gumbo, but chorizo is added to pay homage to Mexican cuisine, along with nopales instead of the traditional okra.

Williams noted that the restaurant will also be sourcing some ingredients from Lucille’s 1913, a nonprofit he founded during the pandemic that now operates a farm in Kendleton and a community garden in southwest Houston.

Staying true to the inspiration behind the menu, other items diners can choose from include smoked chicken drumettes made with mole and crispy chicken shins. The field pea hummus comes with chorizo, fry bread, and chapulines. If you’re in the mood for something comforting, opt for the five-bean chili made with poblano, a cheese blend, avocado cream, Creole sauce, and red sauce; or even an oxtail stew crafted with guajillo, vegetables from the 1913 garden, and rice with greens. Williams hopes all who come through Late August’s doors will find a little bit of themselves represented in the food.

“The most personal, best memories are around food, right?” Williams says. “I want diners to feel welcomed, comfortable, and receive exceptional service, but as far as the food is concerned, I want them to taste that familiarity. Even though the menu might read a little obscure, there are notes that I hope resonates with everybody.”