In my home, there are levels to macaroni and cheese. There’s the boxed version—tolerable and ever-reliable, appreciated by toddlers and tired moms alike; the good, gooey homemade kind that feels like a special treat; and the baked version—the holy grail, with a golden-brown topping and crispy edges that’s often cut like a cake and just as special.

While others suffice, when it’s a holiday or a moment you want to truly impress, it's essential to go the extra mile for the best baked version. But this comes with a great (and sometimes intimidating) responsibility. It’s a joke in many Black households that you can’t just assign anyone to make the macaroni and cheese. That job belongs to someone who knows what they’re doing.

So this year, when Houstonia set out to help readers plan their Thanksgiving spreads, I thought about the most exceptional mac and cheeses I’ve tried as a food writer. Two versions instantly came to mind—Lucas McKinney's version at Midtown seafood restaurant Josephine's, and that of Dawn Burrell.

It makes perfect sense that Burrell—one of the most talented chefs in Houston and a champion of Black foodways—would master the art of cheese and noodles. The Top Chef finalist showed out during a collaboration at ChòpnBlọk with chef Ope Amosu and guest chef Tavel Bristol-Joseph of the Michelin-starred restaurants Nicosi and Isidore. A picture of a square cut of her Creole-baked macaroni and cheese—a medley of cheeses and flavors—is still embedded in my mind. Was that…béchamel? A roux? I had questions.

Her secret? A béchamel made from a blonde roux and a blend of extra-sharp and mild white cheddar, plus fontina, for her ideal mac.

She starts by sautéing onions in butter, then adds flour to make a golden roux, which helps form a creamy béchamel. She ensures the liquid is as hot as possible before adding cheese, dropping in the shreds in small increments so they can fully melt before adding more to avoid curdling. Her magic ratio: two parts pasta to one part sauce, with a touch of cream cheese for extra silkiness, plus mustard and red wine vinegar to cut the richness. “It will make all the difference in your mac and cheese,” she says. “… You need something in between all that lusciousness and fat. You need something to brighten it up.” Finish with plenty of salt, “because fatty dishes really like salt."

The type of noodle used matters, too. Burrell prefers mini penne pasta or large elbows that catch cheese inside every bite. Always undercook slightly—she warns that overboiling will ruin all that effort. 

Top the mixture with paprika, panko breadcrumbs tossed with finely grated cheddar, and a drizzle of butter for a crispy finish. For an upgrade, steep garlic and onions in the butter first, strain, and add to the crumbs before baking. Then, “you have like, creaminess and crunchiness at the same time,” she says.

Bake at 325–350 degrees, depending on the pan size, covering with foil for the first three-quarters of the time, then uncover to finish.  

If Burrell's mac and cheese is refined elegance, chef Lucas McKinney's is all Southern swagger. McKinney, who hails from Biloxi, Mississippi, brings a soulful sensibility to his version at Josephine's. When that ceramic bowl of bubbly macaroni and cheese hits the table, it’s not just a side—it’s a showstopper crowned with crispy fried chicken skins and a hint of hot honey that adds a sweet heat. 

He starts with Velveeta and milk—an emulsifying duo—then seasons with garlic,  onion powder, salt, and pepper. He slowly stirs in yellow cheddar to the cheese sauce to avoid a grainy texture, then combines with pasta (he likes cavatappi or medium shells). Layer the mac and cheese with more cheddar, top with breadcrumbs, and finish with shredded white cheddar for contrast. Bake while the cheese is still warm so it doesn’t solidify. McKinney bakes his at 400 degrees for about 15 minutes, then broils until the top is golden and bubbling. 

McKinney’s Recipe:  

Yield: About 1 1/2 quarts (≈6 cups)

Servings: 8–10 (about ½–¾ cup per serving)

Ingredients:

• 1/2 block Ez Melt cheese (cut into 1/2-inch cubes)
• 7 cups milk
• 3/4 cup heavy cream
• 2 cups shredded yellow cheddar cheese
• 1/2 teaspoon onion powder
• 3/4 teaspoon granulated garlic
• Pinch cayenne pepper (optional)
• 1 teaspoon salt

Instructions from McKinney: 

• Warm the Dairy: In a large saucepan or pot, heat the milk and heavy cream together over medium heat until hot but not boiling.
• Melt the Ez Melt: Add the cubed Ez Melt cheese to the hot milk mixture. Reduce the heat to low and stir often so it doesn’t stick or burn on the bottom.
• Add Cheddar & Seasonings: When the Ez Melt starts to soften and melt, stir in the cheddar cheese, onion powder, garlic, cayenne, and salt. Continue cooking and stirring for about five minutes, until smooth and creamy.
• Blend for Smoothness: Remove from heat. Use an immersion (stick) blender to mix until perfectly smooth and silky. (You can also transfer to a blender carefully if needed.)
• Serve or Store: Use right away over pasta. If storing, transfer to a bowl or container and press plastic wrap directly onto the surface to prevent a skin from forming. Storage: Refrigerate for up to four days. To reheat: Warm gently on the stove over low heat, adding a splash of milk to loosen if needed.

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Two Recipes Our Editors Swear By

For an excellent starter macaroni and cheese: Creamy Baked Macaroni and Cheese by the Chunky Chef

One of the internet's most popular mac and cheese recipes, this one's nearly foolproof, and once you master it, it’s easy to swap in different cheeses and make it your own. It calls for cheddar and Gruyere, but why not experiment? When I'm going for a more cost-effective version, I’ll swap the Gruyere with a combination of mozzarella and Velveeta, and whatever's in my fridge. I love the roux base, which adds an extra level of creaminess. I always season generously—extra garlic powder, a squirt of Dijon mustard, and just a hint of nutmeg for warmth. There’s usually very little left during the holidays. The kids especially love it. 

For a macaroni and cheese that will have everyone asking for the recipe: Grown-Up Mac and Cheese by Chef Resha of CarnalDish

When I'm cooking for adults or feeling ambitious, I turn to one recipe that humbles me every time. This version takes thought, preparation, and seasonings I had to look up on Google, meaning I can’t always make this on a whim, especially for a crowd. Chef Resha doesn't believe in shortcuts, and her dedication to explaining convinced me to follow every step—fresh garlic, chopped herbs, a specific brand of white cheddar cheese, and oven-baked bacon. I followed her directions exactly, and by the end, everyone was asking when I’d make it again.   Whew—it’s worth it. The adults in your life will love it, and it could stand as an entree, it's one to make when you have time and patience.

Sofia Gonzalez contributed to this story.