For more than five decades, Marcelino Cantu has helped Houstonians celebrate birthdays, anniversaries, and other special moments at one of the city’s most iconic Creole restaurants.

Cantu began working at Brennan’s of Houston in 1968 after immigrating to the US from Monterrey, Mexico, in search of a change. After a short hiatus, he returned in July 1974 and has worked there ever since, becoming one of the longest-tenured servers in the restaurant’s history.

Now considered a pillar at Brennan’s, Cantu compares his career to building a home—starting from the foundation and learning each room as he went. “Everything’s evolving,” he says, even after decades on the floor.

In 2019, Cantu celebrated 45 years with the restaurant, and at the time, described his job as a form of therapy. Six years later, he doesn’t see himself quitting. What keeps him coming back are the guests who feel more like family than customers. Many of them continue to request him by name when they dine at Brennan’s. His philosophy is simple: Be welcoming, stay present, and keep a smile on his face. “You have to do the best for the guest,” he says.

Born and raised in New Orleans, Thai Van began his hospitality career while in college, working at an upscale Chinese restaurant where he started as a host before moving into serving. He quickly fell in love with the profession—not just for the flexibility, but for the people and the connections.

In 2005, he transferred to University of Houston and was introduced to the Azuma group and began working at its namesake restaurant. He entered the health-care industry after graduating in 2010 and continued his job as a server. It didn’t take long to realize health-care administration wasn’t the right fit. “When I realized, ‘Hey, you know what, that wasn’t for me, [I thought] why not join the restaurant industry and make the most of it?’” he says.

In 2012, Van officially started working as a server at Kata Robata, a role he compares to hosting dinners—something he already loved doing in his personal life. Being able to do it professionally, with benefits, made the decision easier.

The server life is demanding. Van jokes that he sees his coworkers more than he sees his family, but he says he wouldn’t trade it for anything. “What makes it special is that, for me, it’s all about real life. It’s all about being reliable. People count on you,” he says. “I always ask myself ‘how do I make it special? How do I go the extra mile? How do I make it more memorable?’” 

Shortly after following her sister to America, Leo Mendoza followed her into the dining room at Molina’s Cantina. Her sister had worked there but once she became pregnant, Leo stepped in to essentially fill her position. It was the first job she ever had. 

In 1976, she started bussing tables, but after a few years into the job, one of the waiters encouraged her to try serving, recognizing her potential. She decided to test it out, and over time, excelled. 

Eventually, Mendoza became a go-to server to Molina’s most prominent clientele, even becoming the dedicated server for President George H. W. Bush. Knowing that the servers wore ties, Bush gifted her 20 from his home collection. Mendoza says she was stunned that he remembered and proudly wore them during each of her shifts, and with each visit, Bush brought additional keepsakes, including pens and pins.

Today, the best part of her job is simply showing up, she says. The thought of retirement seems almost impossible. “What am I gonna do if I don’t work at Molina’s?”

Mila Rios, another longtime server with more than two decades of experience, started at Molina’s Cantina around 29 years ago, when it was located on Highway 6. Living nearby, Rios walked in and asked for an application. She was quickly hired, first serving as a busser for a few months before she transitioned into the food runner role. She held that position for seven years before becoming a server.

Rios eventually moved to Molina’s Westheimer location, where she still commutes by bus for about 45 minutes each way. No matter the distance, she’s always punctual, says Ricardo Molina, the restaurant’s president. “Molina’s is my second home,” she says. 

Regulars who request her affectionately call her “mala”—Spanish for “bad”—though Rios is anything but. She takes the time to get to know her customers and treats them like family, she says. “I’ve never had a complaint,” she says. 

Kady Lopez first entered the hospitality industry by working at a small Mexican restaurant in Houston, though she says it wasn’t financially beneficial. Someone later encouraged her to apply for a job at Ninfa’s, a move that would shape the rest of her career.

At first, she was rejected. But she applied again and again. On her fifth attempt, she landed an interview with one of Mama Ninfa's daughters-in-law. The two bonded over their Honduran roots, and Kady was hired on the spot. 

She hit the ground running, learning the ins and outs of the restaurant—from the expo area and tortilla-making station to the hostess stand and even the kitchen, all with the goal of becoming a server. Forty-nine years later, she’s still going strong. “I’m going for my 50 [years],” she says. “Then if I pass the 50, I’m going for the 51.” 

Ninfa’s has become a second home, not just for Kady, but also her sister, Tina. “We are the oldest and longest [serving] from the whole company,” Kady says. 

Tina began working at Ninfa’s 44 years ago making tortillas before working her way up to server. “I love to come to work,” Tina says. 

Both sisters have left an indelible mark on Ninfa’s and its diners. No matter who is at the table, they aim to deliver warm, attentive service. “Sometimes, when I serve people from out of town here, they say, ‘Kady, when we come back, we’re gonna ask for you.’ [I ask] ‘What do I do?’ [And they say], ‘Everything is great, your presentation and the way you approach us and all that, we like it,’” Kady says. 

When serving families, Kady often focuses on the children, knowing that happy kids make for happy parents. She remembers one guest who was so delighted by her attention he told her she looked like his grandma and asked to take a photo with her. 

One of Tina’s dearest memories, though, involves a customer named Megan, who was pregnant at the time. Tina told her that she wanted to see her baby after it was born. Four days later, Megan returned with a newborn in her arms. Tina was overjoyed. The two formed a lasting bond, with Tina speaking only Spanish to the child to help her learn the language. When the girl turned 15, Tina helped her celebrate her birthday at Ninfa’s, with a decorated corner complete with cake and a crown. On another visit, Megan insisted her friends give Tina a round of applause. When Tina asked why, Megan replied, “Because you’re my second mother.” Tina says the moment brought her to tears.  

Rosemarie Foster launched her serving career in a Chinese restaurant when she was 21. She immediately fell in love with the culinary world, and after hopping around other Houston-area restaurants, Foster landed at Truluck’s in 1993. 

She never expected serving would become her lifelong career, but as she built a loyal clientele, her commitment deepened, she says. Today, Foster estimates nearly 200 diners request her each year. “I can’t get away from it,” she says. “But it is so fun.” 

The work can be physically and mentally taxing, but Foster says the reward of making guests happy keeps her motivated. “We get that immediate gratification of making them happy,” she says. 

Foster also credits Truluck’s with treating employees with dignity. The company created the Anne Gerner Award of Excellence in Service, an internal award named after her friend who introduced her to Truluck’s, to honor staff who demonstrate exceptional commitment to the job. Employees who embody those values are recognized each year.

For those debating whether to stay in the industry, Foster’s advice is to follow your heart. “They have to love people. They have to really love what they do as a server,” she says. “If you don’t, it doesn’t really work.”

Soon after he moved to Houston, Rick Stanley realized that Truluck’s was going to become his forever company. He had lived in New York, Los Angeles, and Europe, working as a model and actor, but he quickly decided after a visit to Bayou City that the Gulf Coast was for him. Stanley used Houston as his home base. “I was still doing my acting, and I’d go back to New York weeks at a time, and they knew that was my love, so they had no problem; [they] let me off [to] go back and do my thing,” he says. “And I always came back and always had a job.” 

That was about 26 years ago. Since then, Stanley has helped open Truluck’s locations nationwide, including in Naples, Florida, and Austin. Today, he works weekday lunches, which allow him to focus on what he loves most: building relationships beyond the dining room. “I’ve met so many great people that I get invited to their houses for Christmas,” he says. “They make me feel like a family now.”

And since Truluck’s doesn’t restrict when its employees retire, Stanley says he’s happy staying put for the foreseeable future. “I look forward to getting dressed in the morning,” he says. “I come to work with a big smile, and when I leave, my jaw hurts from the day from laughing so much.”