Oaxaca is a vibrant collision of culinary and cultural traditions, where Indigenous roots meet bold innovation. While most tourists head straight for the Mexican state’s beaches, the capital itself is ripe for discovery. Here, squash blossoms fill nearly any form of tortilla imaginable; the cocktail scene, fueled by local mezcal and other Mexican spirits, rivals some of the most creative in North America; and strolls through its bustling mercados reveal the city’s soul. Fortunately, it’s easy to explore Oaxaca over a long weekend, and Houstonia has done the research. From street food tours to ancient ruins, here’s a guide to getting the most out of Oaxaca.

Explore the culinary scene

Food tours can often be gimmicky, superficial, and seemingly more of a cash grab for the companies that host them than a means of introducing visitors to locally treasured places. Discover Oaxaca Tours with Suzanne Barbezat, however, was a refreshing exception. Barbezat and her husband, Benito Hernández, curate a handful of thoughtful guided itineraries, including birding tours and trips to Monte Albán. At the beginning of the three-hour street food tour ($50 per person, with a $150 minimum), Barbezat sets the tone by asking participants about their interests and the foods they’re keen to try. Then, you’re off on a journey that’s just as much about eating as it is about Oaxaca’s history and culture.

The city’s vibrant, full-of-life mercados are at the core of the tour. Guests might nibble on strings of fresh quesillo at the Mercado Sánchez Pascuas stand before digging into fragrant tamales oaxaqueños at another. Scope out a picnic table at La Cosecha to devour tlayudas topped with squash blossoms, huitlacoche, and mushrooms, and be sure to request the tejate at Mercado Benito Juárez. Ladled into small bowls, this thick and frothy pre-Hispanic drink is made with maiz, mamey pits, and cacao beans and flowers, making for a mellow, slightly nutty sip. Mercado 20 de Noviembre is often a final stop, where a super-smoky corridor is lined with vendors cooking carnes asadas. Though it may be challenging to secure a table, the feast, consisting of meats, tortillas, fixins, and salsas, is worth the wait.

Be sure to pack some comfy shoes, a hat, and sunscreen—you’ll be putting in some serious steps.

Keep eatin’

Craving more street food? Seek out Lechoncito de Oro, a food truck on the corner of Murguía and Calle de Los Libres that specializes in suckling pig. Order its tacos, tortas, or tostadas, all of which are stuffed with juicy pork, and don’t skimp on the fiery avocado-based green salsa (unless you’re a spice weenie).

After a day of markets and street food, take a detour to one of Oaxaca’s many fancy hot spots to scratch that fine-dining itch. Dinner at Los Danzantes is particularly special, with stellar food and service, complemented by an open roof that offers an indoor-outdoor feel. Begin with a sampler of five different Oaxacan moles, served with pillowy plantain dumplings. The mogo mogo appetizer, a sizable plantain fritter ball stuffed with an Istmo de Tehuantepec–style stew, might be your best bite of the night, followed by the picaña barbacoa terrine, served with avocado cream and radishes on a bed of creamy blue corn. When a craving hits for seafood, head to Humar for all sorts of crudos, ceviches, and a killer oyster taco.

In the same building that’s home to Los Danzantes is the sexy cocktail bar Selva, an excellent place for a pre-dinner drink or a nightcap. The “Tables Collection” of the local-spirits-focused menu is a crowd-pleaser where each cocktail is accompanied by a mini snack. (During a recent visit, our mezcal-based Pasillo de Humo came with a quarter-size tostada.)

Cocktails and snacks are also the move at Nois, which serves a tasting menu at the upstairs restaurant but has a downstairs lounge that’s a charming place to stop in for crudo and a plátano sour made with local rum. For travelers seeking more education in Oaxacan spirits, head to the chill Sabine Sabe for a Mickey Miguel Miguelito, a delightful mix of mezcal distilled with tamarind and combined with watermelon, strawberry, and lemon juices.

At Onnno, a hip café in a minimalist, white-walled space known for its excellent French and Mexican pastries, opt for the decadent sándwich de huevos, made with scrambled eggs, bacon, avocado, caramelized onion, and miso mayo on sourdough. A 30-minute walk outside of Centro in the Reforma neighborhood sounds intriguing, the lovely Itanoní is worth making time for. Here, you can watch cooks work their magic or get a glimpse of owner Gabriela Fernández Orantes as she kneads the masa that’s been nixtamalized in-house. Sit at a picnic table on the backyard patio, and enjoy a blue corn quesadilla de la milpa, filled with squash blossoms and quesillo.

Get some (ancient) culture in

Take some time to visit the Monte Albán ruins, the most important archeological site in the region. Built by the Zapotecs in the sixth century BC, Monte Albán served as their capital for centuries and was also inhabited by the Olmecs and Mixtecs peoples. Many companies offer transportation in addition to full- and half-day guided tours. If you want to explore on your own, Lescas Co. runs a bus every hour from Centro to Monte Albán; the round trip costs about $6.50 (120 pesos) and takes 30 minutes each way.

Back in Oaxaca City, it’s hard to miss the beautiful Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán, which serves as an anchor to the city center. Wander inside to admire the extravagant, gold-decked interiors of the temple,  which was originally built in  sixteenth century. To the left of the church doors is the entrance to the Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca (100 pesos, or a little over $5). With 23 exhibit halls displaying thousands of artifacts, this sprawling museum serves as a real-life compendium of the region, from ancient times to the present day. Take a peek through the building’s east- and north-facing windows, which overlook the gorgeous Jardín Etnobotánico de Oaxaca, or book a guided tour through the gardens for 50 pesos (roughly $3).

Shop for souvenirs

You won’t have any problem finding gifts to bring home from Oaxaca—you will have a problem finding enough space in your suitcase. Temporary markets pop up in town squares and alleyways throughout the year, and boutiques line every single street in Centro. The state-run Aripo comes highly recommended for its diverse selection of clothing, accessories, decor, and home goods, all made by local artists. Discover artisanal goods at great prices at Mujeres Artesanas de las Regiones de Oaxaca, a local women-run shop, and stop into Marias Arte & Diseño, a trendy, contemporary store with cute gifts from ceramics to textiles.

Our Hotel Pick

A dreamy stay is a guarantee at Boulenc Bed and Bread (rooms start around $160–200 per night), which is conveniently located in the heart of Centro. The abundance of tropical plants against adobe walls and rustic-chic rooms bathed in neutrals makes the hotel exude a jungle feel, but pops of color appear in the bathrooms and on the bedsheets. (The street is loud at night, so make use of the earplugs that the hotel supplies for light sleepers.)

Boulenc puts on quite the spread for breakfast, including homemade jams, fresh fruit, and the same breads and pastries that made the affiliated bakery so famous. Breakfast is best enjoyed on the rooftop terrace, which doubles as an equally great place for an evening nightcap. Find the jams and other gourmet food products in the adjoining shop (if you still have space in your suitcase).

How to get there

Expect to spend $400–600 on flights, depending on the time of year and when you book. United Airlines offers the only nonstop (and often most expensive) flight from Houston to Oaxaca, which takes approximately 3 hours. Aeromexico offers an option that tends to be cheaper, connecting through Mexico City, and American Airlines has a route with a layover in Dallas. Whatever you do, don’t be tempted by the sub-$400 flights of Viva Aerobus. This budget airline is known for frequent delays and cancellations.