Taqueria Thursday

Feasting at La Fonda

Homemade Mexican food at fast food prices.

By Paloma Lenz March 28, 2013

Taqueria La Fonda is located across from a row of warehouses on Old Galveston Road. The bright yellow-orange exterior stands out against the monochrome industrial landscape of its South Houston neighborhood.

The quesadilla grande is a good choice if you're hungry. When the waitress brought it out, I understood that by "grande" they really meant honking huge. The huge quesadilla was made by folding a burrito-sized tortilla in half and packing it full of juicy, finely chopped beef fajita, and gooey mozzarella cheese. Freshly made chunky guacamole, crisp iceberg lettuce and tomatoes, and sour cream filled the rest of the plate.

My boyfriend's eyes widened when his food arrived: a torta de fajita with a shiny, slightly charred telera crown roll that beckoned for a bite. Unlike many tortas with layers that seem to run together in a mushy, albeit delicious, mess, this torta was sturdy. We also ordered a taco de fajita that came with an order of lightly seasoned papas fritas. It was too much food, but we forced ourselves. If you are a fan of soft and slightly greasy fries, you will agree that these strike the perfect balance between crispy and soft.

Quesadillas, tortas and tacos are usually our favorites, but it became very clear that we had missed out on the taqueria's most popular items--the "pollos y carnes asadas al carbon." The parade of smoky fajitas, sweet grilled onions, and chiles toreados prompted a greedy growl in our already full stomachs as they landed on tables all around us. We decided we would definitely be returning and grabbed a menu on our way out, so we could check out the parrilladas section.

Price: Along with drink orders and a gordita de nopalitos to-go, a whopping $21.27.

Locations: 812 Old Galveston Rd., S. Houston, 713-943-0606

502 S. Richey St., Pasadena, 713-472-4343

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