My friend Scott at Dallasfood.org recently made a passionate defense of barbacoa as a legitimate form of Texas barbecue on his website. Reading his blog made me hungry, so I picked up a pound of barbacoa, a pound of carnitas, a dozen fresh cooked flour tortillas, a dollar's worth of chopped onions and cilantro and
three kinds of salsa at Gerardo's. The cashier threw a handful of chile pequins in the bag at my request. I laid out the spread in the kitchen at the Houstonia office. My fellow employees made their own tacos until the Tejano breakfast treats disappeared.
609 Patton St.
Most barbacoa in Texas is made by braising cheek meat. The barbacoa at Gerardo's Drive-In on Patton is still made with whole cabezas, and you can get some sesos (brains) mixed in if you like. I gave barbacoa a chapter in Legends of Texas Barbecue, and my recipes for an old-fashioned wood-smoked version of barbacoa can be found in The Tex-Mex Grill and Backyard Barbacoa Cookbook. My attempt to smoke a cow head on a barbecue smoker is recounted in a video on YouTube.