Breakfast Spots

Barbacoa

The weekend starts on Friday morning with barbacoa at Gerardo's on Patton.

By Robb Walsh May 24, 2013

 

My friend Scott at Dallasfood.org recently made a passionate defense of barbacoa as a legitimate form of Texas barbecue on his website. Reading his blog made me hungry, so I picked up a pound of barbacoa, a pound of carnitas, a dozen fresh cooked flour tortillas, a dollar's worth of chopped onions and cilantro and

 three kinds of salsa at Gerardo's. The cashier threw a handful of chile pequins in the bag at my request. I laid out the spread in the kitchen at the Houstonia office. My fellow employees made their own tacos until the Tejano breakfast treats disappeared.

Gerardo's Drive-In
609 Patton St.
(713) 699-0820

Most barbacoa in Texas is made by braising cheek meat. The barbacoa at Gerardo's Drive-In on Patton is still made with whole cabezas, and you can get some sesos (brains) mixed in if you like. I gave barbacoa a chapter in Legends of Texas Barbecue, and my recipes for an old-fashioned wood-smoked version of barbacoa can be found in The Tex-Mex Grill and Backyard Barbacoa Cookbook. My attempt to smoke a cow head on a barbecue smoker is recounted in a video on YouTube.

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