One of these days I'll be able to write about L.J. Wiley without inserting the fact that I still miss his wild and woolly modern Mexican restaurant, Yelapa Playa Mexicana, to bits. But here we are, three years and five months after it closed, and I still remember Wiley's exciting food and flavors like I just ate there yesterday. Fortunately, Wiley returned to Houston after a post-Yelapa hiatus, opened a food truck, and has been selling his tuned-up version of tacos and other truck fare since 2013.

You'll find his truck, Taco Nuts, popping up at a variety of locations across town, from Inner Loop hot spots like Antidote and Liberty Station to Energy Corridor office parks. Before too long, Wiley will have a second truck up and running, which means even more daily destinations. And while meat-eaters have plenty to choose from—including chicken mole tacos and pozole, both of which should serve as buffers against this chilly weather if you choose to venture out—Wiley caters to vegetarians, too.

My two favorites are his tomato and avocado taco on corn tortillas with spicy lime aioli and crunchy Fritos and that old taco truck classic, elotes en vaso. This corn in a cup is almost sweet enough for dessert, topped with a generous dollop of crema, some barely salty queso fresco, cilantro for greenery, and a rough shake of homemade chile powder for oomph. Together, the duo will run you $7 (cue readers sounding off that tacos are cheaper at "real" taco trucks; yes, yes, we hear you and we also remind you that it is possible to enjoy both modern and old-school food trucks).

If you really want to go all out, Taco Nuts also offers a giant vegetarian burrito—the so-called "Legend of the Olmecs"—for $12, which wraps up roasted potatoes, two fried eggs, a trio of homemade salsas, and veggies in a 15-inch flour tortilla for maximum gut impact. Who said vegetarian food was all kale and quinoa?