The Show Geauxs On

After Years of Promises, Louisiana-Influenced Eunice Will Open Monday

Drake Leonards's Houston debut presses on.

By Timothy Malcolm September 28, 2018

Eunice goes deep into Louisiana for its cuisine. Here's some gumbo to tide you over.

Image: Randy Schmidt

Correction: A representative for Eunice says disgraced restaurateur John Besh remains a part-owner of BRG Hospitality and its concepts, including Eunice, and maintains a financial tie to the company. The original version of this story incorrectly stated Besh's relation to the company.

Drake Leonards had to wait a while for his Eunice to open (heck, we interviewed him two years ago about this project), but it's now at the doorstep. The Greenway Plaza restaurant, whose menu is inspired by Leonards' Louisiana upbringing (in a town called Eunice), starts service Monday, according to a release. You'll get oysters, gumbo, quail, Gulf shrimp, and other hyper-local foods, plus homemade ice cream, pies, tarts, and a bar program focusing on whiskies and bourbons.

Eunice is under BRG—formerly (John) Besh Restaurant Group—and was slated for a 2017 opening, but accusations by Besh employees of sexual harassment both by the famous New Orleans restaurateur and within the company put the opening of Leonards's restaurant on hold. Besh left the company in October 2017.

Leonards, who worked in Besh's group at spots like Restaurant August and Lüke but was never specifically named in any accusations, also worked under Daniel Boulud and Gavin Kaysen in New York City. His team at Eunice will include general manager Luke Smith (of BRG's Pigeon & Prince) and chef de cuisine Daniel Blue (Hunky Dory).

The interior by Gin Design Group is anchored by a 24-seat, U-shaped bar and nearby oyster and crudité station with tiled marquee. Look for a chef's table near a semi-open kitchen, plus furniture of the provincial Louisiana style made in Texas. An outdoor terrace will seat 40.

Eunice will be open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday to Friday, 3 to 10 p.m. Saturday, and 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. (brunch) and 4 to 9 p.m. Sunday. Happy hour (with $0.75 oysters and half-off snacks, draft beer, specialty cocktails, and house wines) will run 3 to 6 p.m. daily.

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