Where's The Beef?

Our Latest Obsession: The Bistro Burger at Verdine

Head to the Heights for a plant-based burger sure to stop you cold.

By Timothy Malcolm May 13, 2019

I've eaten a lot of burgers lately. Too many. 

There's a moment when I needed to push the plate away once in a while, nod, and whisper to myself, "No, not right now. Maybe later." After eating all those burgers, there became a point where even looking at a beef patty in between halves of a sliced bun brought me to a grumpy silence.

So I surprised myself when, on a recent afternoon, I visited the new brick-and-mortar spot of Stephani Hoban's Ripe Cuisine food truck, Verdine, located at the Heights Waterworks development at 449 W 19th St. I scanned the menu, and the thing that stood out to me, surprisingly, was a good ol' burger.

But this being Verdine, which is focused on plant-based meals, the Bistro Burger is made of lentils, walnuts, and mushrooms. And it's freaking delicious. Nutty and earthy with awesome texture, the nicely packed patty is paired with arugula, tomato, dill pickles, caramelized onions, cashew goat cheese, and a roasted red pepper aioli. 

The Bistro Burger isn't so much a burger as a high-level sandwich with exceptional balance and sharp notes. The aioli gives a kick, pairing nicely with the nutty creaminess of the "chevre." The veggies are fresh. The wheat bun is simple and doesn't get in the way of the produce. I paired mine with the house fries, which were a little limp for my liking, that come with a snappy good raisin-sweetened organic ketchup. 

Verdine is a good, healthy addition to a relatively grub-friendly stretch of the Heights. And the Bistro Burger fits in really well with the rest of the burgers in the city–from the many Hopdoddy creations to La Lucha's nearby Pharmacy Burger, an absolute stunner by the way. And I would know—I've eaten a lot of 'em.

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