First Bite

Savoir Has Happy Plates in the Heights

The wine bar and restaurant specializes in pizza, pasta, and small thrills.

By Timothy Malcolm September 19, 2019

Beef and broccoli with cheese-filled tortellini.

I was happy with my order at Savoir, the new Heights restaurant from Brian Doke (Tiny Boxwoods) and co-partners Haig and Hien Papaian, but my neighbors' order of a three-piece flight of curly fries had caught my attention.

Fries with wine isn't a new phenomenon—search and you'll find folks talking about such a thing, especially when it's fries and champagne. But color me excited about the prospect of sipping a glass of Muscadet while chomping on truffle-and-parmesan-dusted fries at a restaurant that also showcases more sophisticated fare like scallops with corn fondue and house-made cornbread, or 12-ounce ribeye with creamy Pipián rojo.

The fries underscore what I found about Savoir from the jump: It's a rare serious restaurant that doesn't act very serious. Consider the pizza I had from executive chef Micah Rideout's kitchen—Spaniard with chorizo, soppressata, olives, semi-soft taleggio, Spanish onions, Fresno chilis, cumin and coriander sprouts. It's small enough for one, perfect for two, equipped with a crispy but pillowy crust. Now, I'd rather a thicker dough that keeps all those ingredients on the slice, but this spicy, salty bomb of a pie wasn't trying to be traditional (and there is a margherita on offer). There are fun pops of creativity here.

The Spaniard at Savoir.

Wines by the glass are heavy on Old World styles with a couple American varieties mixed in. The cocktail list focuses on classics. 

Savoir feels like the nicest restaurant in a small town, the place where everyone seems to congregate on a weekend night. Maybe you're jonesing for a big dinner, but maybe you just want wine and fries. Either way, there's fun to be had there.

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