Beef and broccoli with cheese-filled tortellini.

I was happy with my order at Savoir, the new Heights restaurant from Brian Doke (Tiny Boxwoods) and co-partners Haig and Hien Papaian, but my neighbors' order of a three-piece flight of curly fries had caught my attention.

Fries with wine isn't a new phenomenon—search and you'll find folks talking about such a thing, especially when it's fries and champagne. But color me excited about the prospect of sipping a glass of Muscadet while chomping on truffle-and-parmesan-dusted fries at a restaurant that also showcases more sophisticated fare like scallops with corn fondue and house-made cornbread, or 12-ounce ribeye with creamy Pipián rojo.

The fries underscore what I found about Savoir from the jump: It's a rare serious restaurant that doesn't act very serious. Consider the pizza I had from executive chef Micah Rideout's kitchen—Spaniard with chorizo, soppressata, olives, semi-soft taleggio, Spanish onions, Fresno chilis, cumin and coriander sprouts. It's small enough for one, perfect for two, equipped with a crispy but pillowy crust. Now, I'd rather a thicker dough that keeps all those ingredients on the slice, but this spicy, salty bomb of a pie wasn't trying to be traditional (and there is a margherita on offer). There are fun pops of creativity here.

The Spaniard at Savoir.

Wines by the glass are heavy on Old World styles with a couple American varieties mixed in. The cocktail list focuses on classics. 

Savoir feels like the nicest restaurant in a small town, the place where everyone seems to congregate on a weekend night. Maybe you're jonesing for a big dinner, but maybe you just want wine and fries. Either way, there's fun to be had there.

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