The smoked turkey enchilada at Brett's BBQ Shop in Katy (potato salad at left).

Brett Jackson has himself a pretty popular barbecue spot. Brett's Barbecue Shop, sandwiched between a vacuum supplier and tailoring business in Katy, typically has lines out the door during its first hour of service. As the line pushes, the dining room fills up quickly, forcing late-comers to plot for a spot whenever it opens. But once seated with a big ol' platter of 'cue, the waiting and wrestling for an open seat doesn't matter at all.

Jackson smokes outstanding meat, from a stellar brisket to succulent pork ribs to hearty sausage made with brisket. The brisket alone vaulted toward the top of my local rankings, echoing what's already been said about the stuff.

But on a recent Friday, I also ordered the daily special: smoked turkey enchilada. It's not an every-week special (Jackson changes things up regularly) but if it's on offer when you visit: Grab it. Heck, grab any of his specials, which sometimes might include brisket enchiladas (in house-made gravy and cheddar), pork belly burnt ends, or pork steak.

The enchiladas start with flour tortillas made fresh just up the street at Fiesta Mart (Brett's doesn't have the space and labor hours to make them in-house). They're filled with plenty of turkey that get six hours in the smoker, plus shredded Monterey jack, then they're drenched in a homemade green chili cheese sauce and more Monterey jack before baking. Every rich, smoky, acidic bite is fantastic. They're easy to put away quickly.

Best yet, the shop is generous with portions. Two come to an order, but there's plenty of chili-cheese-sauce-coated turkey spooned on top and to the side, just in case you want more. You always want more.

Brett's BBQ Shop is worth the drive and worth the waiting in line outside some vacuum shop. In fact, the specials alone make the journey necessary, and that's some high praise.

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