As the holiday season approaches, one small and beloved business is working around the clock to provide an essential taste of tradition: tamales. Founded by Ana Soria, Momma’s Tamales opened a brick-and-mortar in Bellaire in December 2020, and the local gem has since become a go-to for those seeking some of the best tamales in Houston.

The intricate process of tamale-making is a labor of love that’s synonymous with celebrations in many Latin American and Hispanic households. The origins of tamales can be traced back thousands of years, to the ancient civilizations of Mesoamerica. Indigenous peoples created these flavorful bundles of masa (a dough made from corn) filled with a variety of ingredients ranging from meats to vegetables and fruits, or sometimes no filling at all.

Today, tamales are found and eaten year-round, but Soria says the holidays still stand as the busiest time of year, when she and her team craft an astounding 5,000 tamales in a single day in preparation for customers’ Christmas Eve feasts. “During that time, the kitchen gets crazy,” Soria says. “You don’t want to be anywhere near here.”

Soria’s journey into the world of tamales is intertwined with a deep sense of tradition and love for her mother, Leonor Arenas, the matriarch of the family kitchen who was known for her exceptional tamales. Before she passed away, she told Soria, “Mija, you need to learn how to make tamales because one day I’m going to die.” Neither knew how soon that would be.

On August 4, 2015, a sudden bacterial infection took her mother’s life, leaving a void for Soria that could never be filled. She turned to tamale-making to deal with her grief, remembering the lessons her mother taught her. “I would make tamales and take them to my mom to try and she would say, ‘Tu no sebres panada,’ like, ‘You’re no good.’ But she didn’t mean it in a bad way,” Soria says, explaining that her mother knew the only way to make her perfect her tamales was to give her a little push. After plenty of trial and error, and passing a taste test from a relative in Laredo, her mother approved.

Soria came to Houston at the age of 6 with her seven siblings from Michoacán, Mexico. Her parents worked in various construction businesses and restaurants, including Brisket Bar-B-Q in Bellaire, whose owners eventually helped her find her current retail space. Soria worked 30 years in a doctor’s office and began Momma’s Tamales as a part-time venture in 2019, selling at various farmers markets, which she still does to this day. When she was laid off in 2020 during the pandemic, she pursued her side hustle full-time.

Throughout the year, the kitchen runs at a steady pace, but come fall Momma’s Tamales is already gearing up for the busiest season. The kitchen is a beehive of activity as Soria and her dedicated team of 10 to 12 tamale makers prepare for the Christmas rush. The process is very labor-intensive and begins with the most crucial component, the masa, a mixture of corn flour, lard or oil, broth, and seasoning. Achieving a flawless masa consistency and flavor is an art form in itself. According to Soria, there’s no cutting corners, and every single tamale is handmade and just like her mother’s recipe.

“When I would make them at home, I could feel someone behind me, like if my mother was behind me, making sure I did everything right,” Soria says. “And still if I catch myself doing something wrong, I hear my mother saying, ‘That’s not right!’”

In the Momma’s Tamales kitchen, sisters Maria and Sofia Juanta, an essential part of Soria’s team, take on the crucial role of spreading the masa onto the corn husks, which Soria says get thoroughly washed, just like when her mother made tamales. They scoop just the right amount to create a base, then add everything from pork and brisket to chicken, cheese, and vegetables.

The sisters, along with other helping hands on the assembly line, fold each tamale into a neat package. It’s a delicate process, one that requires both skill and finesse honed through years of practice and a deep appreciation for the art. Once the tamales are ready to be cooked, they are placed vertically in a steamer. This step can take several hours, depending on the quantity.

Meanwhile, in a corner of the bustling kitchen, Soria’s nephew, Tito Soria, takes on the role of salsa maestro. He creates different salsas to accompany the tamales once they’re ready to eat, including red guajillo and creamy jalapeño. Even with the holiday hustle and the increasing popularity of her tamalera, Soria remains committed to her craft and is still in the kitchen every day, overseeing the process. In a world of ever-evolving culinary trends, Momma’s Tamales reminds us of the beauty of holding onto tradition and the power of family recipes.

“The community has been very supportive of our small business, and we put a lot of love into making them,” Soria says. “Because it’s not just about making tamales, it’s about keeping my mother close to me in some way.”