Inside a lobby-cool storefront that resembled Mondrian’s idea of a fast-casual restaurant, the happy hour crowd milled about with beach-ready cocktails. The tacos burst with bright colors: pickled fuchsia radishes, hydrant-orange carrots, and fresh green cilantro sprinkled on top of roasted Brussels sprouts; a soft creme fraiche drizzled over a rich orange sea of chicken tikka masala; a generous pour of spicy salsa verde spilling over a poke-pink brisket.
Oh, and actual poke. That too.
Fusion Eats opened their doors for a friends-and-family night Thursday at its Greenway Plaza location, a spot designed to feed both the working crowds of the booming business district and the nearby residents who crave a few tacos and cold cocktails at the end of a tough day.
The eatery is the second currently operating location for the Fusion team of Julia Sharaby and David Grossman. They also own Fusion Taco on North Main Street in the Heights, which is the newest chapter in a story that began with a food truck … and yes, a dream. Sharaby and Grossman wanted to show Houstonians that tacos could include ingredients not seen in your ubiquitous Tex-Mex restaurant. They accomplished it with Fusion Taco, and at Fusion Eats, they’re definitely exploring new, unexplored corners of the build-a-taco landscape.
That brings us back to poke. Fusion Eats dives into the craze with a hard-shell taco filled with raw tuna, onions, green peppers, and cilantro. That was the only corn tortilla offering in Thursday’s lineup, which also showcased Fusion Taco favorites like smoked brisket and chicken tikka masala.
Fusion Eats’ interior, with its boxy bar area, polished blue-gray wood accents, and countless seating options (family table, four-top, bar chair, reclining wall, leather booths), makes the space feel a little like a co-working hangout. Succinctly, it’s more “fusion” than “eats.”
But that should play with the hustling crowds that are sure to visit during weekday lunch, after work for a happy-hour nosh, or just before clocking in and desiring a a breakfast taco. Fusion is doing off-classic interpretations like steak and egg, pork belly and egg, and fried avocado, along with a more traditional egg and chorizo.
And judging by the crowd on Thursday, which included more than a few people wearing lanyards, Fusion Eats will do just fine at Greenway Plaza.