One Night Only

Late Night Noodle Pop-Up at D&T Drive Inn

An icehouse turns into a Thai night market this Saturday, serving khao soi and more.

By Katharine Shilcutt December 3, 2013

Khao soi stand in Thailand | Flickr user avlxyz

If you missed the first Thai pop-up dinner series at D&T Drive Inn, don't worry—there's still hope for you yet. The "Midnight Sticky Rice" pop-up back in September prefaced some well-received news that chefs Benjy Mason, Richard Knight, and fishmonger P.J. Stoops would be opening a Northern Thai restaurant in the Heights called Foreign Correspondents. The food at the Midnight Sticky Rice dinner served as a preview of sorts, though Foreign Correspondents will be many months still in the making. 

Late Night Noodles Pop-Up Dinner
Sat, Dec 7 at 8
D&T Drive Inn
1307 Enid

In addition to the extant Down House (a coffeehouse/restaurant), D&T Drive Inn (a modern icehouse), and Sugar & Rice (a brand new Houston-centric food magazine), Foreign Correspondents and its companion restaurant—Hunky Dory, also to be run by chefs Mason and Knight—form the Treadsack universe, run by entrepreneurs Chris Cusack and Joey Treadway. Treadsack isn't one of those restaurant operation names you hear very often, but the group is nevertheless quietly working to change the way Houston consumes food, drink, and media.

Now, the group is holding yet another pop-up dinner—"Late Night Noodles"—this Saturday evening to preview a few more Foreign Correspondents menu items: namely khao soi and satay. As the Foreign Correspondents team puts it:

Khao Soi is the best Thai noodle dish you've never heard of. Khao Soi originated in Chinese Muslim communities in what is now Burma, and from there spread through northern Thailand. There are countless variations, with most featuring noodles in a broth of coconut milk and Indian curry powder, and accompanied by chunks of shallot, pickled mustard greens, lime wedges, and roasted chili oil.

A Thai khao soi stall by night. | Flickr user avlxyz

There will be two versions of the khao soi available at Late Night Noodles: Chiang Mai-style khao soi that features a light, sweet broth made with chicken and coconut milk, and the rarer khao soi tai yai. This version is commonly found in Burma and northern Thailand, but rarely seen in the U.S. Unlike the Chiang Mai version, it's made with goat meat and boiled eggs.

In addition, Stoops will be making muu satay: grilled pork skewers served with a peanut sauce and pickled cucumbers and carrots. Both khao soi noodle dishes will be $9; the satay is $7. The food will be served from 8 p.m. until it runs out—and it will run out.


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