We can hear it now: a whole cover story on Gulf seafood, and no mention of crawfish? At least, we can hear it from some of you. Houston is divided on the question of whether crawfish is seafood. Ask a group of your friends their opinion, and watch them split up into separate, but equally passionate, camps.

Even the experts are divided. Texas food writer Robb Walsh, who contributed to our cover story, says mudbugs are definitely not seafood, while local authority Jim Gossen takes the opposite point of view: “I think anything that comes from the water would be seafood whether it’s saltwater or fresh water,” he says. “The word ‘sea’ is kind of misleading in a way because fishermen catch redfish in the salt water or brackish water. Most fish come into brackish water to eat. I consider frogs seafood, too.”

Fortunately, no one’s ever invited Houstonia to a frog boil. Anyway, March in Houston means crawfish boils, so we’re here to help—regardless of the crustacean’s official designation—with this illustrated guide to hosting your own Cajun-style crawfish boil at home.

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