September has not always been dominated by pumpkin spice-inspired edibles. Not very long ago, it marked the start of chiles en nogada season. Traditional forms of the dish comprise roasted poblano chiles stuffed with picadillo, ground beef or pork mixed with dried fruits such as raisins and spices (nutmeg, clove, thyme) dressed in nogada (a walnut cream sauce), and dotted with a generous handful of pomegranate seeds and chopped parsley.
The season for chiles en nogada has just begun. For one, it's strongly associated with Mexico's independence day, which is September 16. Moreover, we're arrived in the ephemeral period of peak freshness of its two key ingredients, pomegranates and walnuts. There is a limited availability if you want this at its best.
Throughout September (and maybe for a few weeks beyond), Tacodeli is offering an untraditional albeit decidedly delicious taco version of chiles en nogada that utilizes unctuous Texas wagyu in its picadillo and substitutes aromatic chopped cilantro for the standard parsley. This writer was not only bowled over by the fine balance between the pepper and softer autumnal seasonings of the green chile’s savory stuffing but also quite smitten with very rich nogada, whose decadence was nicely cut by bursts of berry sweetness from pomegranate seeds.
One chile en nogada taco certainly takes the edge off one’s hunger; two in one sitting plus a basket of chips and guacamole will have you wishing you could take a siesta.