Offal Good

Go Ga-Ga Over the Gizzards at Harold’s in the Heights

Classics like shrimp-and-grits have made a name for chef Antoine Ware, but we like his crispy duck parts.

By Joanna O'Leary March 22, 2016

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La Paloma

You could go to Harold’s for the refreshing La Paloma, a citrusy, slightly tangy cocktail made with tequila, ginger beer, grapefruit juice and lime.

Or you could go to Harold’s for chef Antoine Ware’s version of classic shrimp-and-grits, which features index finger-length prawns (avec head) atop a bed of creamy, sumptuous polenta. Then, there are the playful étouffee balls, whose crunchy spherical exterior belies a supple core of soft, fragrant rice.

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And, finally, this Easter Sunday you could go to Harold’s for a duck egg omelet with foie gras gravy, a limited edition, brunch-only special.

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Duck egg omelet with foie gras gravy.

All are delicious testaments to Ware's culinary prowess. But just as exemplative of his creative potential and damn finger-lickin’ good is the coarse-in-name but elegant-in-flavor "crispy duck parts." According to Ware, this dish was the happiest of accidents, the product of leftover fowl gizzards that he dared not throw away.

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Crispy duck parts, better than the name suggests.

And we will happily join him in a chorus of "waste not, want not" any day. A soy marinade adds a botanical, umami savoriness that beautifully balances the fatty bits studding the various duck parts. Ginger and garlic provide dueling sweetness and acidity, while a sous-vide preparation allows for crunch to coexist with tenderness. Utensils are provided; however, eating with your hands is recommended. All this can be yours for $10. What are you waiting for?


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