Need more proof that Houston's barbecue game has taken a huge step up over the past few years? Head to Roegels Barbecue on its whole hog days. 

I visited Roegels as it opened one Saturday afternoon back in August, and it just happened to be the first time pitmaster Russell Roegels was cooking a whole hog in the Carolina tradition (a whole pig in a pit, but with much more nuance requiring real fire management skills), which has its roots with indigenous and enslaved people, but has carried on to the present day. According to the Chronicle, Roegels acquired a custom pit from a Dallas fabricator and will be serving up whole hog on one Saturday each month.

To be honest, I came to Roegels that August day wanting some of its famous smoked turkey breast, but upon hearing the smokehouse was featuring a whole hog that day, my plans shifted just a little. I opted for a pulled pork sandwich topped with refreshing homemade coleslaw. A side of hot vinegar brought out the juiciness in the meat. But I didn't need it. The pork carried the day—tender and meaty with just enough fat. It's an outstanding sandwich. 

As for the turkey? Killer. The best turkey I've had in town—mouthwatering with a sharp smoky bite. I paired it with sides of macaroni and cheese, which was slightly too watery for my tastes, and beautifully cooked, smoky collard greens and, naturally, a big ol' styrofoam cup of Big Red. 

It's clear that Russell and Misty Roegels are putting thought and care into every ounce of their barbecue operation. This smokehouse is fast becoming a necessary stop for any barbecue hound in and around the Houston area.