When you think of Houston-native son Ford Fry's new State of Grace on Westheimer in River Oaks, you probably think of this:

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You'd also be perfectly correct to think of this:

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Here's to the ladies who lunch.

Image: Alice Levitt

But while seafood and society (along with one of the most impressive, hunting-lodge-chic rooms you'll find anywhere) are the obvious attractions, something else stood out to me at a recent meal there: the textbook frites.

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Frites et Béarnaise, sans steak.

Image: Alice Levitt

I think we can all agree that the entrecôte is rarely the best part of an order of steak-frites. That distinction belongs to the crisp, skinny French-style fries. If there's a side of sauce Béarnaise, the hot butter-and-tarragon bath may compete for stardom on the plate. At State of Grace, that was exactly what I got, and I wasn't asking, "Where's the beef?"

The crunchy potatoes are covered in coarse salt and chives. The sauce is as buttercup-yellow and herb-filled as I could hope. It's the best plate of fries I've had thus far in Houston. And I'm pretty sure you want to eat them.

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